The first three years are the most important when it comes to pruning young fruit trees. Learn how in this Read more
When I was new to growing fruit trees, I learned that horizontally-growing branches produce fruit faster than vertical branches that reach up towards the sky. So when I noticed that our young pear trees had lots of shoots that wanted to go up, I researched how to weigh down fruit tree branches.
I went online and ordered tree branch spreaders, hoping they would help me solve this problem. I ordered Leilin fruit branch spreaders which have a wide opening at one end that you set onto the trunk of the tree. At the other end, there is a hook so that you can capture an unruly vertical shoot and hook it down to prevent it from growing upwards.
How do fruit tree limb spreaders work? It all revolves around lignification, the process by which a tree develops and strengthens its woody tissue. Young tree shoots are tender and not lignified when they first emerge. But gradually the shoot grows and lignification begins, slowly making the branch woodier and less flexible as it matures.
So, when you’re using a limb spreader, you are training the soft young branches on your fruit trees by pulling them down into a 45-degree angle. The trained branch continues to grow and lignify. Once the branch is set in its new horizontal position (this may take only a few months), you remove the limb spreader and use it on another branch.
Well, that is what happens in theory anyways.
That was not my experience. I found these spreaders frustrating! Either they fell off of the tree, or they weren’t long enough to make any difference. Sure, they might stop the branch from going upwards where the spreader is attached, but once the branch gets longer than that, it may still try to grow vertically.
So what is the best way to train fruit tree branches so that they grow horizontally? There are various types of fruit tree limb spreaders on the market that you can try. And there are other, creative and inexpensive ways to weigh down branches. We will explore that and more in this article.
Let’s dig in!
So, why is it important to train fruit tree branches? Ron Perry, Professor Emeritus of Horticulture at Michigan State University and co-author of Espalier Fruit Plantings for Northern Gardens: Creating Fruit Trees as Art, joined my students and I in our live Zoom monthly meetup and he explained how weighing down fruit tree branches works.
According to Ron, many apple, pear, and European plum varieties naturally want to grow upward rather than outward.
“If these branches remain vertical they take longer to become reproductive. By slanting them to at least a 45-degree angle from the trunk, their growth slows down, and you’ll see fruiting spurs sooner.”
The problem with vertical branches isn't just that they take longer to become fruitful: they are also weaker than horizontally-growing branches. When a young branch grows upward close to the central trunk, it often creates a weak union called bark inclusion.
“Whenever an upright branch forms a narrow crotch with the trunk, bark inclusion occurs," Ron says. "This weakens the connection between the branch and the tree.”
As it turns out, bark inclusion causes weakness because the tight crotch squishes up some of the tree's vascular (phloem) tissue and causes it to die.
But are fruit tree limb spreaders really the solution? Or could weighing down branches in this manner worsen your tree’s issues? Let’s explore that next.
The issue is that some limb spreaders can cause more harm than good. Suzanne, an Orchard People student, bought metal tree branch spreaders for her Anjou pear tree grafted onto M26 dwarfing Apple rootstock.
While the spreaders came in various lengths, she found the longer ones more useful. The shorter ones temporarily corrected branch orientation, only to have the branch resume its upward growth after the spreader straightened part of it. Suzanne felt these spreaders weren’t very effective and worse, in some cases, they dug into the bark, creating wounds that could serve as entry points for pests and diseases.
That can easily happen, says Ron. Commercial growers will use limb spreaders for apple and pear trees but avoid using limb spreaders on stone fruit trees (like peaches, apricots, and sweet cherries) because they are so vulnerable to bacterial canker which can easily get into an open tree wound.
Saying that, there are many types of tree limb spreaders you can experiment with. But you can also save your money and try some of the following easy and inexpensive ways to weigh down fruit tree branches. Let’s discuss those next.
Essentially, the goal is to weigh down young tree shoots to a 45-degree angle without damaging their bark. Here are some creative ideas:
Clothes Pins: Identify the young shoot you want to train and clip a wooden clothes pin onto the central stem just above the shoot to train it to grow horizontally.
Ropes and Tent Pegs or Weights: Use rope secured to the ground with tent pegs, or tie it to a DIY weight like a concrete-filled garden pot with a hook (make them using the instructions below). If you don’t have rope, old pantyhose work well as they are soft and won’t dig into the branch!
Partially Filled Water Bottles and Soft Garden Tie: You can also use soft garden tie to hang partially filled plastic water bottles on the branches that you want to weigh down. Fill the bottles enough to bring the branch down to 45 degrees and leave them until the branch lignifies. Ensure the tie is padded or coated to avoid damaging the branch.
Galvanized Wire and Tent Pegs: Matt, an Orchard People student, uses galvanized wire and tent pegs in his small orchard. “It’s super cheap at 585 feet for 40 bucks. I can make whatever size I want and they’re fully reusable,” he explains.
Wood with V-Cut at Ends: Ron suggests making your own spreader from a wooden lath with a V-cut on both ends using a band saw or electric saw. “For 30 trees, you might only need to make 10 or 12 of these, In various lengths like 30 cm (1’), 45 cm (1.5’), 60 cm (2’), and a meter (40”),” he says. They’re not abrasive and fit snugly below the branch you’re trying to spread.
Ron’s favorite method is using UV-resistant rubber bands from Peach Ridge Orchard Supply in Michigan. “They work with both young and lignified branches,” he emphasizes. “The 4-inch bands are the most versatile, but I occasionally use 8-inch bands or link multiple bands for extra strength.”
Training branches is crucial for building a strong fruit-bearing tree structure. But, mastering specialist fruit tree pruning techniques is essential for long-term success. Learn to prune fruit trees in this article on pruning old apple trees, or join our online courses at Learn.OrchardPeople.com. Registered students can join our live monthly live Zoom meetups for discussions and answers to your questions!
Make your own DIY tree weights with used plant pots filled with concrete. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
Materials Needed:
• Small used plastic plant pots or tin cans
• Quick-setting concrete mix
• Landscape staples or other sturdy hooks
• Twine or strong garden string
• Water
• Mixing container and stirring stick
Step-by-Step:
1. Prepare the Plant Pots: Clean and dry the recycled plant pots or tin cans.
2. Mix the Concrete: Follow the instructions on the quick-setting concrete mix package. Mix the concrete with water in a separate container until you achieve a thick, pourable consistency.
3. Fill the Plant Pots: Place a landscape staple or hook vertically into the center of each plant pot. This will serve as the attachment point for the twine. Pour the mixed concrete into each plant pot, filling it to the top.
4. Allow Concrete to Set: Follow the curing time recommended on the concrete mix package. This may take a few hours.
5. Attach Twine to Branches: Identify the young fruit tree branches you want to train. Tie one end of the twine gently around a branch so it will not cut into or girdle the branch. Put the twine close to where you want to apply pressure to direct branch growth.
6. Secure with DIY Tree Weights: Loop the other end of the twine through the landscape staple in your homemade concrete weight. Pull the twine so it’s tight enough to gently bend the branch down to a 45 degree angle. Repeat this process for each branch you want to train, adjusting the tension as needed.
7. Monitor and Adjust: Regularly check the tree’s growth and adjust the twine tension or reposition the DIY tree weights as necessary. Remove the weights when the branch is lignified. This may only take a few months.
This page includes affiliate links. Orchard People may receive a small commission if you make a purchase. The funds will help support the creation of free resources including our blog, YouTube channel and podcast.
Learn more about Susan on the about us page.